Houseplant · Asparagaceae

Spider Plant

Chlorophytum comosum

Cascading green-and-cream blades that race to fill a pot, the spider plant wants bright indirect light and a drink when the soil dries, and it lives safely beside curious pets.

Light

Bright indirect

Water

Every 7–⁠10 days

Warmth

55–⁠75°F · 13–⁠24°C

Hardiness

USDA 9–⁠11

Pet-safe
Spider Plant

Overview

Few houseplants ask so little. Its roots reach back to the wooded country of southern Africa, where it lives under a flickering canopy of dappled shade, and that ancestry is what lets it carry on in a gloomy corner indoors. Long, ribbon-thin blades arch up and pour over the lip of the pot, a habit that wins it pride of place on a shelf or in a hanging basket.

The plantlets are what make it stand apart. A grown plant flings out slim, wiry runners, each tipped with a small offshoot, the spiderettes, that sway in the air like tiny spiders strung from silk. Every one strikes root in short order, so one plant swells into a whole shelf of fresh plants to hand around.

For many homes the real pull is how harmless it is. The spider plant is non-toxic to cats and dogs, so a pet batting at the swaying blades comes away unhurt. Hand it indirect light and a drink once the soil dries, and it races along, shrugging off nearly every beginner slip.

Care

The short version: set it in bright indirect light away from any direct sun, pour a drink every 7 to 10 days once the top half of the soil goes dry, root it in a well-draining potting mix, and hold the room between 55°F and 75°F (13°C to 24°C).

Light

Set the spider plant in bright indirect light and shield it from direct sun, which bleaches and singes the blades. It carries on in medium light, in shade, even tucked in a dim corner, though the stripes glow brightest under bright, filtered light. A window dressed with a sheer curtain makes close to the perfect spot.

Water

Wait for the top half of the soil to go dry before the next drink, which tends to land around every 7 to 10 days. Pull back through winter, when growth idles and the soil holds its damp longer. Those plump roots hoard water, so this plant rides out a forgotten drink far more kindly than a waterlogged pot.

Soil

Root it in a well-draining general-purpose potting mix so water slips on through rather than gathering around the roots. Acidity barely troubles it, and it does well across a pH from 6.0 to 8.0. All the mix really must do is drain, since water left standing brings on root rot.

Temperature

Plain room warmth sits well with it, the sweet zone landing between 55°F and 75°F (13°C to 24°C). Steer it clear of chilly drafts and any corner that slides toward freezing, because at heart this is a tender plant. Even, steady indoor warmth is the whole of its request.

Humidity

Ordinary household humidity does the job, so there is no figure to chase down. Parched winter air can crisp the blade tips, and that is the moment a spider mite is most apt to move in. A swift rinse of the leaves or a water tray set nearby steadies things when the air turns very dry.

Feeding

Offer food only through the spring and summer growing stretch, and lay off across fall and winter. A half-strength balanced houseplant fertilizer now and again covers it fully. Keep the hand light, since an excess scorches the blade tips brown and thins out the very plantlets you are after.

Pruning

Little needs cutting on a spider plant past a quick tidy. Snip browned blade tips on a slant to hold the leaf's natural taper, and clip spent flower stems away once they wilt. Plantlets can come off too, whether to root up or to keep the plant looking trim.

Repotting

Aim to repot every 1 to 2 years, or the moment the plant turns rootbound. The signs are clear: roots pressing or splitting the pot, fleshy tubers shoving the soil upward, or the plant drying out fast and slowing its babies. Shift it up a single pot size and freshen the mix.

Size & spacing

A spider plant rises around 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) tall and fans out from 12 to 35 inches (30 to 90 cm) once the blades arch over and the babies dangle below. Leave it room to cascade, since a shelf edge or hanging basket flatters it best. Growth comes fast, filling out a pot inside one season.

Troubleshooting

Spider plant troubles tend to surface in the blades first, with crispy brown tips heading the pack. Read these small signals early and a minor slip gets caught before it widens. Find your symptom below, then step in while there is still time to help.

Severe

Yellow leaves above soft, mushy roots

Yellowing blades perched over wet, heavy soil point to root rot from overwatering, the one problem here that escalates quickly. Slide the plant from its pot, slice away every brown, slimy root, and settle it into fresh mix that drains in a flash. After that, water with a lighter touch and confirm the pot lets water escape.

Fix:

  • Unpot and trim rotten roots
  • Repot in fresh well-draining mix
  • Reduce watering
Setback

Blades fading to a pale, bleached wash where sun strikes them

Faded, scorched blades that have lost their green tell you too much direct sun is striking the foliage. This plant lives for bright indirect light and singes on a baking sill. Slide it away from the pane, or hang a sheer curtain so the harsh noon rays never touch the leaves.

Fix:

  • Move to bright indirect light
  • Shield from midday sun
Setback

Raised, shell-like brown specks studding the blades and stems

Hard little brown lumps clinging to the foliage are scale insects, and the tacky shine beside them is the honeydew they secrete. Scrape the bumps away with a soft cloth, then coat the plant in horticultural oil or insecticidal soap. Look any newcomer over closely before it sits next to the others.

Fix:

  • Wipe off scales
  • Apply horticultural oil or insecticidal soap
Setback

White fluff packed like tiny cotton balls into the leaf crooks

Soft white tufts wedged where the blades meet the crown are mealybugs, one more sap sucker that leaves a tacky glaze behind. Touch each tuft with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, then close with a round of insecticidal soap. Hold any fresh plant aside until you are sure it carries nothing.

Fix:

  • Dab with rubbing alcohol
  • Apply insecticidal soap
Setback

Hair-fine webs stretched over leaves gone dull and freckled

Gossamer threads strung across blades flecked with pale dots betray spider mites, which thrive when indoor air turns parched. Hold the leaves under a running tap, treat with insecticidal soap or a miticide, and lift the moisture around the plant. A humid pocket of air turns the foliage into poor lodging for them.

Fix:

  • Rinse foliage
  • Apply insecticidal soap or miticide
  • Raise humidity
Cosmetic

Papery brown tips edging the ribbon-like leaf ends

Dry, papery brown points on the leaf ends are the most common gripe, yet the plant beneath them is rarely unwell. Blame the fluoride, chlorine, and salt that creep in from tap water, sometimes alongside dry air or a heavy hand with feed. Pour distilled or rainwater instead, rinse the pot through every so often, and clip the crisp ends back on a slant.

Fix:

  • Water with distilled or rainwater
  • Flush pot to leach salts
  • Trim browned tips
  • Ease off fertilizer
Cosmetic

Dense huddles of tiny soft insects coating the youngest shoots

Plump, soft little bugs massed along tender new shoots, paired with a sticky sheen, are aphids. One firm blast under the tap sweeps most of them away at once. Reach for insecticidal soap should they return, and watch the fresh shoots where they like to gather.

Fix:

  • Rinse off with water
  • Apply insecticidal soap
Cosmetic

A full, arching plant bare of any dangling plantlets

A lush plant that refuses to throw plantlets is usually just too young or too cozy in its pot. These plants tend to spill out babies once the crown fills in and the roots start to crowd. Lighten the feed, let it age, and hand it short days with long, unbroken dark nights for about 3 weeks to set the display in motion.

Fix:

  • Let plant mature and become slightly potbound
  • Reduce fertilizer
  • Give short days and long uninterrupted nights ~3 weeks

Toxicity

Here is a plant you can let your guard down around. The spider plant is non-toxic to cats, dogs, and people, so nothing needs perching on a high shelf or shut away. A pet that bites into a blade faces no harm, and that ease is much of why it lands in so many homes.

Safe for

People · Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds

Cats Safe

A cat can swat and gnaw on the arching blades with nothing to fear. Gulp down a big mouthful and the worst is a touch of queasiness.

Dogs Safe

A dog can mouth the leaves and walk away fine. Among leafy greens, few are gentler to keep beside an inquisitive pup.

Horses Safe

Carries no toxins for horses. An inquisitive muzzle can grab a mouthful with nothing lost.

Rabbits Safe

Fine for a rabbit to graze on, so long as leafy greens stay a modest slice of the daily ration.

Livestock Safe

Holds no poison for grazing stock. Cattle, goats, and sheep face no risk from a mouthful.

Birds Safe

Fine beside caged birds and poultry alike. A pecked blade does no damage.

People Safe

Harmless and gentle around small children, which earns it a place at the top of the list for homes with prowling toddlers.

Varieties

A handful of named cultivars carry the spider plant, each marked apart by the way its blades are striped or curled. These are the ones you will most often spot tagged by name.

'Vittatum'

Picture a spider plant and this is what comes to mind, each green blade split by a creamy white band running straight down its center.

'Variegatum'

This one reverses the look, painting crisp white margins along the outer edge of each green leaf rather than a stripe at the heart.

'Bonnie'

A small, tidy form whose variegated blades twist and coil into loose curls in place of long, straight arches.

'Milky Way'

Here the leaf is mostly pale, a wide white-to-cream heart bordered by only a slim ribbon of green at the rim.

'Mandaianum'

A dwarf with deep green blades laced in yellow stripes, compact enough to perch on a shelf or fill a snug corner.

How to propagate

Few plants come this easy to multiply, and the swaying babies do the bulk of the labor on your behalf. Root one of those dangling plantlets, carve up an overcrowded clump, or sow seed if patience is on your side.

Offsets & pupsEasy

Anytime plantlets present · 2-4 weeks

Here is the rewarding part, and the simplest path to more plants. Press a plantlet, the little spiderette swinging at the stem tip, onto a pot of damp soil while it still hangs from its parent, or stand it in a glass of water until pale roots emerge and then settle it in soil. Either route takes root in roughly 2 to 4 weeks, and only then do you cut it loose as a plant of its own.

DivisionEasy

At repotting or spring · Few weeks

Once a thick clump crowds its pot, splitting it is the other way to go. Come repotting time or in spring, ease the plant out and tease the plump, tuberous root mass apart into pieces, each holding its own blades and roots. Set those pieces into pots of their own and they take hold within a few weeks.

SeedModerate

Spring · Several weeks

Starting from seed is the long, uncommon route. Sow in spring and allow the seedlings several weeks to find their footing. Bear in mind that seed-raised plants can stray from the parent, so a striped mother may give you nothing but plain green babies.

Myths

Myth

Those arching leaves purify the air of an entire room.

Reality

That air-scrubbing reputation traces back to a sealed test chamber, not a lived-in room. A peer-reviewed review showed the sliver a potted plant draws from your air is nothing beside a window left ajar. Crack a window to freshen the air, and keep the plant for the pleasure of it.

Myth

Leaves with browned points show a plant that is dying back.

Reality

Those scorched ends look dire, yet the plant holding them is almost always healthy. The culprit is nearly always fluoride, chlorine, and salts in tap water, or thirsty air, not a fading plant. Pour distilled or rainwater instead and the fresh blades unfurl clean.

Myth

Spider plants need bright direct sun.

Reality

Direct sun is the single thing this plant cannot bear, bleaching the green right out of its blades. What it craves is bright indirect light, and it will manage in shade and dim corners besides. Spare it a scorching sill and the leaves hold a deep, even green.

Myth

Those striped leaves are poisonous to a curious cat or dog.

Reality

This needless fear shuts a wonderful plant out of countless pet homes. The ASPCA lists the spider plant as non-toxic to both cats and dogs, which stands as its single greatest virtue. A pet that nibbles a blade is in no peril whatsoever.

Myth

A rich feeding schedule fills the plant with dangling babies.

Reality

Dumping on fertilizer brings about the very thing you are hoping to avoid. Too much feed thins out the plantlets and scorches the leaf tips brown. A modest balanced feed across spring and summer, with snug roots, is what coaxes the babies out.

Myth

Tap water is fine for spider plants.

Reality

Ordinary tap water is the usual reason those blade ends go dry and crisp. The fluoride and chlorine it carries gather and burn the points as the months pass. Reach for distilled or rainwater instead, and rinse the pot through now and then to carry the salts away.

Sources